The unsullied green hillsides suddenly appear out the window. It is a countryside not taken for granted with its centuries old trees, stone cottages, and small, unpaved dirt roads. No new commercial developments will wake you up here with their screeching cranes. Think chirps, the raindrops hitting a rooftop, the crunch of leaves under hiking boots. Before pumpkins and candy apple red leaves are replaced with chubby snowmen and naked branches, consider strolling through vineyards in the historic Brandywine Valley for your next, and possibly last, quick getaway of the season.
Traditionally known for its place in the history books, the piece of land straddling southeastern Pennsylvania and northern Delaware stakes its claim to Revolutionary fame according to a battle between George Washington’s troops and the redcoats in 1777. (For you history junkies, visit the Brandywine Battlefield on November 28th for a reenactment and receive 10% at the museum shop.) The valley is a living museum, worth visiting as much for its deep historical roots as for its diverse acres of wineries.
In the past few years, the region has added burgeoning wine destination to its list of attractions, and was given a tourism boost following the creation of the Wine Trail’s Rise & Shine, Wine & Dine package, which offers a discounted pass for tastings at each of the six Brandywine vineyards. The only way to pick up a pass is at a bed & breakfast. This means you’ll be enduring lower prices than chain hotels (prices can range from $70-$245), homemade meals, and a vintage experience in a locally run guest house.
Start by sampling wine at the family-owned and operated Va La Vineyards (8820 Gap Newport Pike (RT 41) Avondale, 610.268.2702, valavineyards.com). Wine is casked on premises and for $10, you can taste three vinos accompanied by locally produced snacks, ranging from artisan cheese to coins of dark chocolate.
More widely known is Chaddsford Winery (632 Baltimore Pike, Chadds Ford, 610.388.6221, chaddsford.com). In contrast to Va La, where all the wine’s grapes are grown in the family’s vineyards, Chaddsford imports the grapes for its extensive wine list. The much larger property has a picnic area, greater selection of wines and accessories on sale, and frequently hosts festivals and concerts. The wine tasting package is $20. (For the culture seeking lot, explore the nearby Brandywine River Museum (U.S. Route 1, P.O. Box 141, Chadds Ford, 610.388.2700, brandywinemuseum.org), a four-story 19th century gristmill that hugs the river and offers thousands of landscapes, stills, and portraits by 19th and 20th century American artists, all part of the Wyeth family art collection.)
Reinvented from an 1837 farmhouse previously owned by Longwood Gardens, Folly Hill Vineyards (700 Folly Hill Road, Kennett Square, 610.388.5895) is now a must-see stop on the wine trail, and is the only vineyard in the Philadelphia surrounding countryside to operate a bed & breakfast. Room prices range from $180-$225, and guests can stay in the converted wine tasting room, which has spectacular views of the crops. There is also a private patio, fit for enjoying the room’s complimentary bottle of Chardonnay or Cabernet Sauvignon.
Near Folly Hill are a few refreshing ways to break up the vineyard hopping. Gateway Stables (949 Merrybell Lane, Kennett Square, 610.444.1255, gatewaystables.com) offers everything from hour long trail rides through the fields and woods to 60 minute group lessons. The owner’s daughter, Laurie Jakubauskas, is an international professional jumper with an equestrian facility a few miles away. Longwood Gardens (1001 Longwood Road, Kennett Square, 610.388.1000, longwoodgardens.org) is something you might expect to find in the backyard of Versailles. More than 1,050 acres of greenhouses, fountains, conservatories, and naturally, gardens, it is every horticulturist’s fantasy and your best bet for finding a few sobering hours (though you could spend half a day) that will awaken all your senses. Check the schedule for a complete list of upcoming events, which include a Chrysanthemum Tour and performances by Taiwanese martial arts, drumming, dancing troop U-Theatre.
How to get there: Although it is possible to get to the area via public transportation, it is difficult to visit all the destinations without a car. Use our hybrid rental car guide to leave directly from Manhattan. Or take the Amtrak Northeast regional train or the high-speed Acela from Penn Station to the Wilmington, DE station, which is a 10 minute drive to the valley. Budget has a rental car location at the station).
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